When you are choosing a greenhouse design, you need to look for one that is the most energy efficient. This will enable you to grow plants and flowers all throughout the year. You need to choose a design that will allow for growing both tropical and hardy flowers. A typical design would be a dome structure that features a unique combination of seven different features. These features are:

* Vents that automatically open and close depending on the temperature inside

* A polyvoltaic solar panel

* A water tank to provide heat during the night

* A solar ventilation fan

* An insulated door

* An insulated stud wall

* A horizontal undersoil insulation

* Heat pipes running underground

In this greenhouse the polycarbonate wall panels can be double or triple glazed. These panels are strong and will last a long time. 99% of the light will shine through for optimal growing conditions. The insulation in the wall will help to provide shade as well as keep the heat in for night time use. In combination with the water tank, it will keep the humidity at the right level and keep the greenhouse from overheating.

With the heating system running under the soil, a solar panel produces the electricity needed to power a fan. The fan blows hot air through the pipes that are buried in the soil beds. Thus the plants get the heat they need to grow. The insulation around the perimeter of the greenhouse prevents the frost from getting through the wall. This enables the soil to maintain an even temperature.

Bookmark to:

A cold frame is essentially a ground level, unheated greenhouse. It is usually a glass or plastic covered box which is mostly used to harden off seedlings before planting them in the garden. It differs from a cloche in that a cold frame is usually more permanent, whereas a cloche is portable and temporary.

Plants in a cold frame are usually in pots or bedding packs. A cloche usually covers plants in their permanent locations in the garden. The seedlings are usually started elsewhere, in a greenhouse, germination chamber, or hotbed. Then they are transplanted to the cold frame to allow them to acclimate them to the cooler outdoor temperatures without subjecting them immediately to the rigors of the ever changing temperatures and wind of the outdoors.

The cold frame can be protected by a blanket or similar cover on nights when the temperatures dip lower than the plants inside can tolerate. Since there is no heat, and the sides and cover usually provide minimal insulation against protection against the extreme temperature swings of early spring is important.

A cold frame can be constructed using wooden boards, using an old window sash or storm window for a cover. A cover can also be constructed using a window screen onto which clear plastic has been stapled. A prop should be provided so the lid can be propped up during the sunny days, to prevent the inside from becoming overheated.

The cold frame can also be used to over winter perennial and shrubs in small pots. The cold frame will protect the small plants from the drying winter winds and help moderate the cold temperatures. Any snow cover on top of the cold frame can also help protect the small plants.

A cold frame is an ideal structure to protect small seedlings in the spring before they are ready to set in the garden. It will help harden off theses small plants. It may also be used to over winter small perennials and shrubs in pots.

Bookmark to:

A hot bed is simply a cold frame which has bottom heat incorporated into it. The old fashioned way is to use manure for the heat source. The recipe for this is about one third organic matter, such as straw or dried leaves to about two thirds fresh manure. This can be horse, sheep, cow, rabbit or fowl. It is best to dig a pit to put this mixture into. Do not use cat or dog manure as these can contain parasites. Mix this thoroughly, water good and leave to sit for a few days. Turn it, to mix in more air. By now, decomposition should be occurring and it should be putting off heat. Lay the cold frame over the manure pit. Then put about an inch of soil on top of the manure mix. You now have an old fashioned hot bed, or you should.

You can plant seedlings into the soil, or in bedding packs filled with potting soil. After germination, the seedlings can be transplanted and moved into a cold frame to grow further before setting out into the garden.

A more reliable heat source for the hot bed is specially made heating cables. These can be found in garden centers and greenhouse supply houses. They generally run off standard 110 volts, have a thermostat which is preset at seventy degrees. Dig a shallow pit about three inches deep. Lay the cables in the pit in a pattern which allows even heat over the entire hot bed. You can uses landscape staples to fasten it down, or cut clothes hangers and bend into a staple shape. Do not allow the wires of the heat cable to cross, and make sure the outlet you use to plug it in has a ground fault circuit breaker installed in it. Cover this with about one inch of dirt, and then cover this with some fiberglass window screen. This is to prevent you from cutting the electric cable if you start digging in the hot bed with a trowel. Then cover the screen with about two inches of topsoil or potting soil. Again, you may plant directly in this, or in bedding packs.

The hot bed can be turned into a propagation chamber to root cuttings in midsummer.

A hot bed can be constructed the old fashioned way with fresh manure and organic matter, or with electric heating cables. Either way, it is an ideal structure to use to start seedlings in the spring and root cuttings in midsummer.

Bookmark to: